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13 March 2023

Using Adhesives... Your Own Way

Using Adhesives... Your Own Way

As lash artists we depend on our tools of the trade but nothing can feel more mysterious than getting to know the ins and outs of lash adhesive.  You’ve probably seen countless lash adhesives touted as sensitive, ultra-hold, super-fast, vegan, and so many other labels that leave you wondering… How do I choose the best one? Well you’re going to want to bookmark this one, as the science lovin’ lash nerds we are at UA we’ve put together the ultimate lash adhesive cheat sheet. 

Are you a new-ish lash artist? Maybe you feel like you’re just getting the hang of working with classic application.  One day your adhesive is rockstar status and the next day you can’t seem to get the “the stick”. Here’s what we suggest:

  1. Make sure your adhesive of choice is just a tad bit slower, meaning you have that extra 1-2 seconds to attach, position, and tweak your extension placement.  
  2. Ensure your humidity is a little lower (under 50%)  to compensate for the extra few seconds you need.  
  3. Avoid clear adhesive since it’s ultra fast and can be hard to gauge how much you’re picking up.
  4. If you’re struggling with getting your placement to stabilize after 2-3 seconds you could be picking up way to much adhesive.  Remember, the more adhesive, the longer the set time. 

Hold Up: Need a little extra time to get into the groove? Hold up has your back! 2-3 second dry time means you’ve got a pinch of extra time to get situated. Thin viscosity makes for a super seamless bond. Great for classic lash application!

So maybe you’re not a “new” artist but you’re just starting to dip into volume artistry or using premades.

  1. Choose an adhesive that has a slightly denser texture. It’s important to keep your adhesive on the lower ⅓ of the extension especially with volume. Ultra thin textures tend to wick up volume fans and working with volume a nightmare.
  2. Clear adhesive can be a great option as you start to diversity your artistry. It’s a quick set but remember that less is more! We recommend practicing adhesive pickup when you start using a clear adhesive, it’s really easy to get a heavy dose.
  3. If you’re getting inconsistent retention with returning clients pay attention to their their natural lash thickness.  It’s common for a thicker, smoother natural lash to need a little extra adhesive to bond to really grab enough surface area. 

Retention: One you can count on! With a 1 second dry time, you’ll be moving through your application with ease. A great choice for volume + classic lash application alike! A little higher humidity above 50% will put even more speed behind the cure with this one. 

Invisible Ink: Our beloved clear adhesive! This one has zero carbon making it totally transparent. With a 1 second set time, you won’t miss a beat. Great for volume + classic alike. Clear adhesive can be a great choice for a client who’s experienced sensitivity to carbon black.

You’re a lash wiz and ready to hit it fast like lightning. 

  1. Higher humidity, no prob! Choose an adhesive that will support your efficient work flow.  You certainly don’t want to spend time holding your volume fans open.  Opt for a lightning fast set time to keep your volume artistry movin’.
  2. Clear is also amazing for a super speedy experience level. Clear adhesives tend to me on the faster side because of zero carbon buffers.
  3. Thinner viscosity can work for you since you’re probably confident in your adhesive pickup.  Remember to keep the adhesive low on those juicy fans for the ultimate volume fluff. 

Time's Up: Is speed what you need? A favorite for volume lash application with a dry time less than 1 second. The higher humidity, you’ll get an even faster set! Not suggested for beginners but a great option when you’re confident with your placement.

Invisible Ink: Our beloved clear adhesive! This one has zero carbon making it totally transparent. With a 1 second set time, you won’t miss a beat. Great for volume + classic alike. Clear adhesive can be a great choice for a client who’s experienced sensitivity to carbon black.

Don’t forget that adhesive is sensitive to the variations in your work environment. Here’s a simple way to see what will works for you:

  1. Identify your environment's humidity. You can do this with a hydrometer or most thermostats have a reading. Humidity is measured by percentage so you’re looking for the a number and % symbol. 
  2. If your humidity percentage is below 40, this can indicate your environment would benefit from adding moisture.  You can use a humidifier to add moisture and raise the humidity percentage. This will aid in the performance + speed of your lash adhesive.  
  3. If your humidity percentage is above 60, this can indicate your environment is very humid and can make working with lash adhesive challenging. You can use a dehumidifier in this case to remove moisture from the air. Too much moisture can lead to your lash adhesive curing prematurely, which can lead to poor extension retention. 

And we couldn’t leave you without some of our tried and true retention tips. You’ll want to screen shot this one! 

  • Bonding extensions to a clean, residue free surface is the first step to ideal adhesive performance! You can’t get a solid bond if there’s dirt, oil, and residue in the way.  Thoroughly cleanse, rinse, and dry to prep the natural lashes. 
  • Don’t forget to refresh your lash adhesive frequently during your application. A fresh dot of adhesive every 20 min can ensure you’re getting a perfectly cured bond.
  • Replace your lash adhesive monthly. Every 4 weeks is the perfect time to reach for a fresh bottle of adhesive, regardless of the amount used.  Cyanoacrylate adhesive, once opened and exposed to the elements can start to break down, making it less effective. 
  • Speed is key! If you’re a beginner and placing your lash extension still takes a few extra seconds, then you’ll want an adhesive that accommodates you with a little slower dry time.  Advanced lash artist? You’ll want the quickest cure so you can keep your application in the fast lane. 
  • Expose your freshly applied lash extensions to a final burst of humidity to balance out the curing process. Use a nano mister or nebulizer for at least 60 seconds for best results. 

We always suggest test driving a new adhesive on a model before you start use on your clients.  This lets you get comfortable with your workflow and the overall vibes. UA adhesives are scientifically formulated to give you incredible results! Take a spin through our collection and find your next adhesive obsession. 

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